When I see something that is potentially improper, potentially violating the electrical code and/or potentially unsafe, I will point it out. What is still mis-understood by me is that when I trip the breaker for the 3 left switches, the breaker cuts power to the relay in the box above the panel (it’s a clusterf**k birdsnest in there pardon my french).īry…please don’t make me open the box to test that loop…I don’t to anymore! Everything is working perfectly right now!! I know that, because I trip one breaker and stick my hands in there all the time (I also trip the other breaker for the switch on the right when I’m working in there, in case anyone was worried). Your suggestion #2 - Yes, that entire circuit (the three leftmost switches) goes dead when I trip the breaker. Anyway, let me know if I’ve missed something in your suggestion or misinterpreted it. ON is not where the problem is though, ON works just fine. ![]() I’m thus assuming (i know, i know i shouldn’t ‘assume’) that if we remove the switch altogether and connect the line and load together, all the LEDs will go ON. ![]() Your suggestion #1 - I haven’t tried this yet, but on the old switch (upper portion of dumb combo switch), everything worked just fine. Lights strobe when ON, turn OFF just fine. I tried this newer driver in a different spot, and the problem followed the driver. When I had the LCA004-UNV driver in (the newer one) the lights turned OFF, but strobed when ON. The problem follows this ONE LCA004-UNI driver. If I move this driver to any other set of lights, the lights flash when OFF wherever this one driver is located. We are back to the original state, where I have one driver causing a problem: the lights it is connected to flash when the red series switch is OFF. I think thats "daisy chaining".Īnyways, just wondering how to wire this shunt cap in.Firstly, I have removed the new LCA004-UNV Hatch driver, and returned the older LCA004-UNI back to where it was. How is it wired between the switch and lights? My lights are in parallel with the switch ( neutrals all wired together at switch, neutral to panel and neutral to lights wired together) then my lights are in parallel to the switch hot/neutral into first light from switch, hot/neutral from light, and then hot/neutral to next light, and so on. Thanks for replying! I have a few general questions about the lut-mlc. That being said, plenty have successfully added an MLC to a dimming circuit and are happy with the results. ![]() Note that the only official use that I have ever seen documented for using the MLC is the non-neutral switches in Caseta, RA2, and Maestro Wireless. Thus eliminating the "ghosting" you are experiencing. Once the dimmer or switch is turned "on", the excess current will fill the remainder on the capacitor and then travel to the fixture. The MLC is a 6mA shunt capacitor, it works by absorbing the LED readout on the digital dimmers in the home control lines- Caseta, RadioRA2, HWQS, RA2 Select. Please advise I am not an electrician or electrical engineer.ġ) Change the LEDs to an approved product- may not solve the problemĢ) Change dimmer to the PD-6ANS- most likely would solve or at least reduce the "ghosting" you are experiencingģ) Try the LUT-MLC- lots of posts on this, Lutron reluctantly has mentioned the MLC with dimming now.
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